To sum up my fall break:
5:30 Friday morning (16 Oct) we left our guesthouse in the North and drove until 1:30 pm (with a stop for picnic lunch) to Osire Refuge Camp. We toured the camp, talked to some teachers, and then those of us who were going to Zambia got dropped off in the town of Otjiwarongo to wait for our bus. Six hours later (10 pm) we got on the bus, and 18 hours later we were in Livingstone, Zambia. We checked into our hostel, which was the nicest and most fun hostel any of us had ever seen, and relaxed, then checked out the Zambian nightlife. Livingstone’s nightlife consisted of a single club – the hottest, most barfight-filled club I have ever seen. The music was good, though, and it was definitely very different than the places to which I go in Windhoek, so I was glad I went.
Sunday we went to Victoria Falls on the Zambian side. It’s dry season, which means the Zambian side has a significantly lower water volume than usual, but that also meant that we could hike out along the edge of the waterfall and literally look down onto the hugest waterfall in the world right below your feet. We had to run away from an attacking baboon, which was slightly less cool, if not any more terrifying.
Monday, I went to Zimbabwe. On the way I had to walk over the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe, where all of the area’s bungee jumping is done. I happened to walk by just as a friend of mine was about to jump, so I stopped to watch her. I had also seen some other friends from across the falls the day before. They all swore it was great, but just watching them was enough to convince me I will NEVER do it. From my vantage point I could see what the jumpers could not – how close they were when they swung back up to hitting the underside of the bridge. From there, I continued into Zimbabwe. The Zimbabwe side of the falls was INCREDIBLE – universally acknowledged as a better view than the Zambian side. The water was falling so hard that I was getting rained on from across the gorge, and as I got closer to the falls the landscape switched from typical dry season trees to actual rainforest – the mist from the falls is enough to maintain a rainforest year round. After spending a few hours walking around the falls, I went into town, ate some good food, and did some touristy window shopping.
Tuesday and Wednesday morning were dedicated to eating good food and enjoying Livingstone. The town is definitely most hectic and vibrant than Windhoek and is more of what I had expected an African town to be like. Windhoek is very colonial and European, while Livingstone is not. It was fun to explore, and I got some good presents at the craft market, but I definitely think Windhoek is a more relaxing city in which to live every day. Got on the bus at noon on Wednesday, and got back to Windhoek at 8 am Thursday morning.
Classes start again on Monday, but the rest of the week is all about relaxing, making lesson plans, catching up on school work, and going to fun places in Windhoek. Last night I went to a Cameroonian restaurant (delicious) and to karaoke at an Afrikaner pub (strange and hilarious). Today I’m going to the art museum and another art exhibition. Going to enjoy my last few days of freedom before I have to finish the semester.
23 October 2009
18 October 2009
Zambia
Arrived safe and sound, staying in a really cool/surprisingly luxurious hostel. Last night my dinner cost 20,000 kwacha (the local currency)...that equals about 4 dollars. It's crazy having money that's worth 50,000 of something. Today I climbed the lip of Victoria Falls. It's dry season, which means less water, but that makes it possible for people to get right on top of the falls and gives beautiful views of the gorge. It was amazing -- we spent several hours hiking during the hottest part of the day, but I almost didn't notice because everything was so beautiful. Out of internet time but will update more later.
16 October 2009
On my Way to Victoria Falls
My spring break (remember, the seasons are opposite from the Northern Hemisphere) has begun. I am currently in a town north of Windhoek called Otjiwarongo, waiting for a bus to the town of Livingstone, Zambia. Livingstone is the town nearest Victoria Falls. The bus ride is 16 hours there, and 22 back (because I'll be going all the way to Windhoek), so hopefully I'll do some awesome stuff and have a really good time. I'll only be there for about 4 days, and then back to Windhoek for the rest of my spring break, during which I'll be taking a much needed rest.
Two weeks ago, I did a rural homestay about 20 km outside of the town of Khorixas. Some highlights of my 6 days on the farm:
-living in a dung hut
-no electricity, plumbing, or running water
-an outhouse! (a great surprise -- other students weren't so lucky)
-cooking over an open fire
-seeing the Milky Way and more stars than I've ever seen before
-milking cows
-herding goats
-BABIES! Of the human and animal variety (goats, sheep, donkeys, chickens, cows, dogs, etc.)
-practicing DamaraNama (the click language)
-slowing down my pace, enjoying tranquility
After my rural homestay, I spent 2 and a half days in Etosha, the big national park/game reserve, and then on to the north (and a bunch of towns that start with O and are difficult for me to pronounce). A good couple of days. Unfortunately for my mom and others who want pictures, I haven't been taking any. Especially on the rural homestay, and throughout the semester, I have felt like having a camera has prevented me from really seeing, experiencing, and interacting with what's around me. There are 23 other students on this program who are much more attached to their cameras, so I will rely on them to have photos to share. I think the memories I gain from not using a camera will be more valuable than the pictures I could take.
Hope all is well with everyone at home!
Two weeks ago, I did a rural homestay about 20 km outside of the town of Khorixas. Some highlights of my 6 days on the farm:
-living in a dung hut
-no electricity, plumbing, or running water
-an outhouse! (a great surprise -- other students weren't so lucky)
-cooking over an open fire
-seeing the Milky Way and more stars than I've ever seen before
-milking cows
-herding goats
-BABIES! Of the human and animal variety (goats, sheep, donkeys, chickens, cows, dogs, etc.)
-practicing DamaraNama (the click language)
-slowing down my pace, enjoying tranquility
After my rural homestay, I spent 2 and a half days in Etosha, the big national park/game reserve, and then on to the north (and a bunch of towns that start with O and are difficult for me to pronounce). A good couple of days. Unfortunately for my mom and others who want pictures, I haven't been taking any. Especially on the rural homestay, and throughout the semester, I have felt like having a camera has prevented me from really seeing, experiencing, and interacting with what's around me. There are 23 other students on this program who are much more attached to their cameras, so I will rely on them to have photos to share. I think the memories I gain from not using a camera will be more valuable than the pictures I could take.
Hope all is well with everyone at home!
12 October 2009
Just Checking In
At an internet cafe with ridiculously long lines, just wanted to post quickly. Finished the rural homestay, went to Etosha, in the North now and still doing well.
29 September 2009
Swakop and One Africa
I am starting to get into the bulk of the semester, which means travel, schoolwork, and lots of projects for my internship. I’m beginning to miss the first few weeks in Windhoek, where I had the free time to go into the city whenever I wanted. I am definitely learning a lot, though, and starting to understand a lot more of what’s going on in Namibia, so it’s a fair trade.
Last week I travelled to the coastal towns of Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. These towns have some of the highest densities of Germans in Namibia. Correspondingly, there is a lot of wealth. Walvis Bay is Namibia’s primary port and one of the economic centers of the country. It was definitely different from being in Windhoek – the towns have really high unemployment rates, but there is a lot more separation of socioeconomic groups, so it’s easy not to notice the poverty.
I had a great time in Swakop. I learned a lot about Namibia’s economy, toured a fish processing factory and uranium mine, and visited some community development programs. On the less academic side, I spent a lot of time on the beach and made my first ever visit(s) to a casino. I also ate a lot of delicious food and met a ton of people from all around Africa and the world.
Back in Windhoek, I’ve been writing papers, listening to speakers, and continuing my literacy program. My internship just keeps getting better. I went to a community outreach for unemployed youth whose vocational training and education my organization is funding. I was so impressed by their stories that I talked to a friend who works for One Africa. Now the youth, my organization, and I are going to be on the news! We should be on tomorrow night. Hopefully I will be able to get a copy of the segment and can post a link on the blog.
I’m especially happy about this news segment because it was something that resulted because of my own initiative and because of the channel on which it will be played. The major tv station here is Namibian Broadcasting Corporation (NBC). They are completely funded (and unofficially controlled) by the government and therefore the ruling party, SWAPO. A lot of people express discontent at the censorship that NBC imposes. One Africa was developed as an alternative means of delivering news and as an independent broadcaster. I’m glad to support them and to have their support at my organization.
My computer is currently out of commission and starting on Monday I will be travelling in rural areas for about three weeks, so expect my blog updates to be less regular. I’ll try to keep everyone updated, but for now I’ll give you my tentative schedule. Classes and internship for the rest of the week. On Monday I leave for my rural homestay in Khorixas, where they speak Damara (they speak in CLICKS). My homestay will be on a farm without electricity or toilets, so it’ll probably be both the most difficult and the most fun of my homestays. From there I travel to Etosha National Park – hopefully I’ll see some cool wildlife – and then to different points in the North of the country. I’m not really sure what we’re doing in the North, but I think I may get to go to Angola. Afterwards, I have my spring break. My plans are pretty tentative, but I’m currently planning to go to Gaborone (the capital of Botswana). Then it’s back to Windhoek where I’ll stay for the rest of my time in Namibia, with only a short interruption for a long weekend in the South. Should be good.
Last week I travelled to the coastal towns of Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. These towns have some of the highest densities of Germans in Namibia. Correspondingly, there is a lot of wealth. Walvis Bay is Namibia’s primary port and one of the economic centers of the country. It was definitely different from being in Windhoek – the towns have really high unemployment rates, but there is a lot more separation of socioeconomic groups, so it’s easy not to notice the poverty.
I had a great time in Swakop. I learned a lot about Namibia’s economy, toured a fish processing factory and uranium mine, and visited some community development programs. On the less academic side, I spent a lot of time on the beach and made my first ever visit(s) to a casino. I also ate a lot of delicious food and met a ton of people from all around Africa and the world.
Back in Windhoek, I’ve been writing papers, listening to speakers, and continuing my literacy program. My internship just keeps getting better. I went to a community outreach for unemployed youth whose vocational training and education my organization is funding. I was so impressed by their stories that I talked to a friend who works for One Africa. Now the youth, my organization, and I are going to be on the news! We should be on tomorrow night. Hopefully I will be able to get a copy of the segment and can post a link on the blog.
I’m especially happy about this news segment because it was something that resulted because of my own initiative and because of the channel on which it will be played. The major tv station here is Namibian Broadcasting Corporation (NBC). They are completely funded (and unofficially controlled) by the government and therefore the ruling party, SWAPO. A lot of people express discontent at the censorship that NBC imposes. One Africa was developed as an alternative means of delivering news and as an independent broadcaster. I’m glad to support them and to have their support at my organization.
My computer is currently out of commission and starting on Monday I will be travelling in rural areas for about three weeks, so expect my blog updates to be less regular. I’ll try to keep everyone updated, but for now I’ll give you my tentative schedule. Classes and internship for the rest of the week. On Monday I leave for my rural homestay in Khorixas, where they speak Damara (they speak in CLICKS). My homestay will be on a farm without electricity or toilets, so it’ll probably be both the most difficult and the most fun of my homestays. From there I travel to Etosha National Park – hopefully I’ll see some cool wildlife – and then to different points in the North of the country. I’m not really sure what we’re doing in the North, but I think I may get to go to Angola. Afterwards, I have my spring break. My plans are pretty tentative, but I’m currently planning to go to Gaborone (the capital of Botswana). Then it’s back to Windhoek where I’ll stay for the rest of my time in Namibia, with only a short interruption for a long weekend in the South. Should be good.
19 September 2009
18 September 2009
Texas Hold 'Em with Afrikaners
OK, I only have a minute to update because I DESPERATELY need a shower (I haven’t been bothering to shower so regularly because I have just been wearing dirty clothes anyway, but my laundry is clean and dry – I’m so excited). I’ve had a good couple of days. A little slower pace than before, which is nice. I’ve finally (mostly) gotten over the flu and cold symptoms I’ve had for the past couple weeks.
So Tuesday morning I had my politics class. We discussed the education system in Namibia. The lack of education is considered by some to be Namibia’s primary obstacle to development, and is a topic I am seriously considering for my senior thesis. After lunch, I had my internship class. We are all doing presentations over the next few weeks about our host organizations, and watching the first presentations gave me some good ideas for my presentation. Tuesday night was pretty quiet at the house – we had our first papers due (2 in my case) so we were all spending the night working.
On Wednesday I had religion class. This is probably going to be my favorite class because it’s so different from my other classes. There are only 12 students with a whole range of religious beliefs. We went to a guest speaker’s house. This man is a retired Lutheran pastor and I think the only way he can be described is as an “old quarterback.” I was unknowingly the honored guest because his oldest child is also named Margaret. The speaker’s hour long talk was not even close to the topic he was supposed to be covering, but I really enjoyed listening to him. He clearly knows a lot and just kept getting distracted by his own ideas. I could have sat on his fluorescent striped couches all day, eating peanuts grown on his farm, listening to him talk. Wednesday afternoon I went to my internship and did some lesson plans for Monday’s class. Wednesday night was a lot of fun. The nightlife here is primarily centered on clubs. That’s not really my scene, since I’m such a terrible dancer. I’ve been going out and I think I have a pretty good grasp on all the clubs in Windhoek (though I’m still working on discovering the Katutura clubs), but I have also wanted a change of pace. On Wednesday I got it…I spent the whole night playing cards with some Afrikaners who had some very...interesting…views on politics and life in Namibia. A totally different viewpoint than those I’ve heard, a viewpoint that most would probably consider offensive, but still something that I’m glad I heard. I am really trying to understand how all different groups of Namibians feel about the current political and economic situation, since I think that will make my ideas a lot more valid.
Thursday was history class, with 2 of the best speakers we’ve had. The first was Paul Helmuth, one of the primary players in Namibia’s liberation struggle. We seem to get really impressive speakers – last week we heard from Professor Karina, who was the Namibian who spoke in front of the UN for independence and an even more important part of the liberation movement. Helmuth was great – we spent twice as much time with him as we were supposed, and he still had so much more to tell us. A theme with our speakers seems to be that they are surprised by our time constraints. There is a definite difference between my sense of time and what is commonly referred to as “African time.” After Helmuth, we heard from the national coordinator of Breaking the Wall of Silence (BWS). BWS is an advocacy organization that is seeking recognition from SWAPO (the ruling party) of the torture and illegal detainment that occurred during the liberation struggle. Since we had just heard a very positive account of the liberation struggle, the second speaker provided an enormous contrast as she told us her story of being tortured and detained in a dungeon for three years. This happened because she was falsely accused of being an enemy agent and tortured into confession. She is one of among more than 2000 who faced similar treatment under the hands of SWAPO, and since independence no recognition or reconciliation has occurred. Thursday night was pretty low-key. I watched a movie and sat on the roof looking at the stars.
Today, I am going to hear a speaker from Basic Income Grant (BIG), going to my internship, writing a paper, and going out with some friends to Katutura. Tomorrow I have a big meeting for my internship’s youth economic empowerment project at 8 followed by a braii. Should be a good couple of days.
So Tuesday morning I had my politics class. We discussed the education system in Namibia. The lack of education is considered by some to be Namibia’s primary obstacle to development, and is a topic I am seriously considering for my senior thesis. After lunch, I had my internship class. We are all doing presentations over the next few weeks about our host organizations, and watching the first presentations gave me some good ideas for my presentation. Tuesday night was pretty quiet at the house – we had our first papers due (2 in my case) so we were all spending the night working.
On Wednesday I had religion class. This is probably going to be my favorite class because it’s so different from my other classes. There are only 12 students with a whole range of religious beliefs. We went to a guest speaker’s house. This man is a retired Lutheran pastor and I think the only way he can be described is as an “old quarterback.” I was unknowingly the honored guest because his oldest child is also named Margaret. The speaker’s hour long talk was not even close to the topic he was supposed to be covering, but I really enjoyed listening to him. He clearly knows a lot and just kept getting distracted by his own ideas. I could have sat on his fluorescent striped couches all day, eating peanuts grown on his farm, listening to him talk. Wednesday afternoon I went to my internship and did some lesson plans for Monday’s class. Wednesday night was a lot of fun. The nightlife here is primarily centered on clubs. That’s not really my scene, since I’m such a terrible dancer. I’ve been going out and I think I have a pretty good grasp on all the clubs in Windhoek (though I’m still working on discovering the Katutura clubs), but I have also wanted a change of pace. On Wednesday I got it…I spent the whole night playing cards with some Afrikaners who had some very...interesting…views on politics and life in Namibia. A totally different viewpoint than those I’ve heard, a viewpoint that most would probably consider offensive, but still something that I’m glad I heard. I am really trying to understand how all different groups of Namibians feel about the current political and economic situation, since I think that will make my ideas a lot more valid.
Thursday was history class, with 2 of the best speakers we’ve had. The first was Paul Helmuth, one of the primary players in Namibia’s liberation struggle. We seem to get really impressive speakers – last week we heard from Professor Karina, who was the Namibian who spoke in front of the UN for independence and an even more important part of the liberation movement. Helmuth was great – we spent twice as much time with him as we were supposed, and he still had so much more to tell us. A theme with our speakers seems to be that they are surprised by our time constraints. There is a definite difference between my sense of time and what is commonly referred to as “African time.” After Helmuth, we heard from the national coordinator of Breaking the Wall of Silence (BWS). BWS is an advocacy organization that is seeking recognition from SWAPO (the ruling party) of the torture and illegal detainment that occurred during the liberation struggle. Since we had just heard a very positive account of the liberation struggle, the second speaker provided an enormous contrast as she told us her story of being tortured and detained in a dungeon for three years. This happened because she was falsely accused of being an enemy agent and tortured into confession. She is one of among more than 2000 who faced similar treatment under the hands of SWAPO, and since independence no recognition or reconciliation has occurred. Thursday night was pretty low-key. I watched a movie and sat on the roof looking at the stars.
Today, I am going to hear a speaker from Basic Income Grant (BIG), going to my internship, writing a paper, and going out with some friends to Katutura. Tomorrow I have a big meeting for my internship’s youth economic empowerment project at 8 followed by a braii. Should be a good couple of days.
14 September 2009
First Day of English Class!
My homestay ended on Sunday. I had a lot of mixed feelings – I loved my family so much and would have liked to spend more time with them, but I also feel more able to relax at the CGE house. I was anticipating an early night when I got back, but all of us CGE students were so happy to be back together that we spent most of the night out back in front of a bonfire (of course I jumped into the pool and then pushed several fully clothed people in as well). So after a night of inadequate sleep (further hampered by skyping) I headed to my internship.
Last Wednesday I had an introduction to one of the HIV support groups with which I am working. They were incredibly welcoming – they sang and danced for me, and I’m excited for them to teach me some of their dance moves. (Last night I also learned some traditional Damara dance moves, which will come in handy during the rural homestay). Today, I started the actual classes with both of my two groups.
The first group (which I had met already) was super enthusiastic. They were really willing to learn and very participative. This group, which is located in the informal settlement of Havana, Katutura, has little to no preexisting knowledge. Some of the learners could name body parts, and others could not even say “Good morning.” Because of this, we spent the day doing basics: body parts, how to talk to a doctor, and aches and pains. We learned and sang the “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes” song – really helpful for them to remember the body parts. Next week I think we will do a math lesson. I’m not really sure how extensive their knowledge is, so I’ll have to be well prepared. The classes are taught in a tin shack, so it gets pretty hot. We are looking for space in the budget to buy some juice and fruit so that it’s easier for them to make it through the lesson.
My second group was more challenging. There were only 3 participants, who arrived between 45 minutes and an hour and a half late. They had a much stronger base proficiency, and I was not expecting them to have so much preexisting knowledge. I was planning to repeat the same lesson plan and it was difficult for me to adjust mid-lesson. The group was also a lot less excited. Hopefully now that I know their skill level, and also what they are interested in learning, I will be able to provide better lesson plans and will get a better reception. Both classes were great learning experiences and I am keeping everything, positive and negative, in mind for the teacher manual I want to create.
All in all, I’m feeling really positive about my internship. I have a busy schedule and I’m getting involved in several projects. My official schedule is as follows:
Monday: Arrive 8:30. Do prep work and any administrative/computer help for the staff. Leave for my first class, which runs from 10 – noon. Travel to the second class, which runs from 1 – 3. Return to the office to work until 5.
Wednesday: Prepare lesson plans for the following Monday, 2 – 5.
Friday (intermittent because of CGE travel plans): Work on the newsletter, administrative work, 2 – 5.
In addition to all that, I am getting involved in some of their community dialogue and other programs that run on the weekends. This Saturday I may be going to a meeting for a new project, the Youth Economic Empowerment Program.
Schoolwork is starting….nothing too overwhelming, but I do have several short response papers due this week. I may be starting art classes with several of the CGE girl. I met an amazing artist whose painting I bought and he is helping us get involved in the art school at which he is a student. Next weekend we are travelling to Swakopmund, which is a coast time described as a little Germany. It should be a good time and a good chance to practice my Deutsch.
Last Wednesday I had an introduction to one of the HIV support groups with which I am working. They were incredibly welcoming – they sang and danced for me, and I’m excited for them to teach me some of their dance moves. (Last night I also learned some traditional Damara dance moves, which will come in handy during the rural homestay). Today, I started the actual classes with both of my two groups.
The first group (which I had met already) was super enthusiastic. They were really willing to learn and very participative. This group, which is located in the informal settlement of Havana, Katutura, has little to no preexisting knowledge. Some of the learners could name body parts, and others could not even say “Good morning.” Because of this, we spent the day doing basics: body parts, how to talk to a doctor, and aches and pains. We learned and sang the “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes” song – really helpful for them to remember the body parts. Next week I think we will do a math lesson. I’m not really sure how extensive their knowledge is, so I’ll have to be well prepared. The classes are taught in a tin shack, so it gets pretty hot. We are looking for space in the budget to buy some juice and fruit so that it’s easier for them to make it through the lesson.
My second group was more challenging. There were only 3 participants, who arrived between 45 minutes and an hour and a half late. They had a much stronger base proficiency, and I was not expecting them to have so much preexisting knowledge. I was planning to repeat the same lesson plan and it was difficult for me to adjust mid-lesson. The group was also a lot less excited. Hopefully now that I know their skill level, and also what they are interested in learning, I will be able to provide better lesson plans and will get a better reception. Both classes were great learning experiences and I am keeping everything, positive and negative, in mind for the teacher manual I want to create.
All in all, I’m feeling really positive about my internship. I have a busy schedule and I’m getting involved in several projects. My official schedule is as follows:
Monday: Arrive 8:30. Do prep work and any administrative/computer help for the staff. Leave for my first class, which runs from 10 – noon. Travel to the second class, which runs from 1 – 3. Return to the office to work until 5.
Wednesday: Prepare lesson plans for the following Monday, 2 – 5.
Friday (intermittent because of CGE travel plans): Work on the newsletter, administrative work, 2 – 5.
In addition to all that, I am getting involved in some of their community dialogue and other programs that run on the weekends. This Saturday I may be going to a meeting for a new project, the Youth Economic Empowerment Program.
Schoolwork is starting….nothing too overwhelming, but I do have several short response papers due this week. I may be starting art classes with several of the CGE girl. I met an amazing artist whose painting I bought and he is helping us get involved in the art school at which he is a student. Next weekend we are travelling to Swakopmund, which is a coast time described as a little Germany. It should be a good time and a good chance to practice my Deutsch.
08 September 2009
Just another update
It’s been almost two weeks since I arrived in Windhoek. Classes have started, I’m staying with my host family, and I’ve worked at my internship site. So, while the pace of my life is starting to slow down and become constant, I still have a lot to talk about.
The three classes I’m taking are African Politics, Racism and Resistance in Southern Africa and the US, and Religion and Social Change. Another course, in which I am not enrolled, is the Development Process. Since that seems like a great course (and the instructor – a Clark grad – is really cool) I will be going to it sometimes just to observe. My politics class may be somewhat repetitive for me, since I took a Sub-Saharan African issues course last fall. The readings for the first week were readings I had done for that class at Clark. The history course (Racism and Resistance) looks promising – we went to a museum focusing on pre-colonial Namibia for our first class. The first meeting of Religion and Social Change is tomorrow. Our first assignment is a creative autobiographical religious road map. A little overwhelming, but I really liked the readings, so I am looking forward to the class.
My host family is really cool – there are three kids ages 13, 17, and 19 and two parents. Most of the family went up North for a wedding this weekend, so just me and my 17-year old sister, Girliy, stayed at the house. The family is pretty well-off and seems very similar to families at the states, so I’m not necessarily getting the “traditional” cultural experience that I was expecting. I am definitely feeling at home with them, though, and through that experiencing Namibian family dynamics, as well as learning about their views on politics, current events, and celebrities.
My internship has started and it seems like it will be challenging, but I will be doing a lot. In addition to the literacy program, I will be creating a new issue of their newsletter, hopefully creating a new template so that the staff can update the newsletter instead of relying on interns, and doing administrative work. The literacy project begins almost immediately – I have introductions tomorrow and start the program on Monday – and I am feeling underprepared. The Ministry of Education donated some materials, but my co-worker told me they were not well-received during the last session. I am working with adult women. They are HIV positive, and because of their lack of English language skills they have a lot of difficulty communicating with doctors and having their health needs met. I will be doing a lot of preparation this weekend, trying to get ready, but I know that until the program actually starts I won’t be able to predict how it will go. To that end, I will spend the semester developing a literacy program manual that future interns, trainers, and teachers for the organization can use. Between that and my newsletter template, hopefully I will have done something sustainable and provided the organization with tools they can use even after I have left.
On a slightly less academic note – still having a great time getting to know the city. I’ve made some friends from UNAM and the College of the Arts and met tons of great people. I went to a really great spoken word session at a cool venue called the Warehouse…unfortunately spoken word is only once a month, but I’m sure I’ll be going to the Warehouse more often that that for music shows as well. I saw some great local musicians at the music festival I went to in Zoo Park, and on Friday night I went to the College of the Arts Theater for comedy night. It was supposed to be all female comedians, but some guys performed in drag. Also been going to different cafes by day and clubs by night to try and find my niche in the city. The social atmosphere is a lot different than in the US, but I’m figuring it out.
This was a long post, congratulations for making it through it all! I have class in half an hour, so I guess it’s time for me to stop rambling and go drink some coffee.
The three classes I’m taking are African Politics, Racism and Resistance in Southern Africa and the US, and Religion and Social Change. Another course, in which I am not enrolled, is the Development Process. Since that seems like a great course (and the instructor – a Clark grad – is really cool) I will be going to it sometimes just to observe. My politics class may be somewhat repetitive for me, since I took a Sub-Saharan African issues course last fall. The readings for the first week were readings I had done for that class at Clark. The history course (Racism and Resistance) looks promising – we went to a museum focusing on pre-colonial Namibia for our first class. The first meeting of Religion and Social Change is tomorrow. Our first assignment is a creative autobiographical religious road map. A little overwhelming, but I really liked the readings, so I am looking forward to the class.
My host family is really cool – there are three kids ages 13, 17, and 19 and two parents. Most of the family went up North for a wedding this weekend, so just me and my 17-year old sister, Girliy, stayed at the house. The family is pretty well-off and seems very similar to families at the states, so I’m not necessarily getting the “traditional” cultural experience that I was expecting. I am definitely feeling at home with them, though, and through that experiencing Namibian family dynamics, as well as learning about their views on politics, current events, and celebrities.
My internship has started and it seems like it will be challenging, but I will be doing a lot. In addition to the literacy program, I will be creating a new issue of their newsletter, hopefully creating a new template so that the staff can update the newsletter instead of relying on interns, and doing administrative work. The literacy project begins almost immediately – I have introductions tomorrow and start the program on Monday – and I am feeling underprepared. The Ministry of Education donated some materials, but my co-worker told me they were not well-received during the last session. I am working with adult women. They are HIV positive, and because of their lack of English language skills they have a lot of difficulty communicating with doctors and having their health needs met. I will be doing a lot of preparation this weekend, trying to get ready, but I know that until the program actually starts I won’t be able to predict how it will go. To that end, I will spend the semester developing a literacy program manual that future interns, trainers, and teachers for the organization can use. Between that and my newsletter template, hopefully I will have done something sustainable and provided the organization with tools they can use even after I have left.
On a slightly less academic note – still having a great time getting to know the city. I’ve made some friends from UNAM and the College of the Arts and met tons of great people. I went to a really great spoken word session at a cool venue called the Warehouse…unfortunately spoken word is only once a month, but I’m sure I’ll be going to the Warehouse more often that that for music shows as well. I saw some great local musicians at the music festival I went to in Zoo Park, and on Friday night I went to the College of the Arts Theater for comedy night. It was supposed to be all female comedians, but some guys performed in drag. Also been going to different cafes by day and clubs by night to try and find my niche in the city. The social atmosphere is a lot different than in the US, but I’m figuring it out.
This was a long post, congratulations for making it through it all! I have class in half an hour, so I guess it’s time for me to stop rambling and go drink some coffee.
02 September 2009
Settling In
I had a great weekend – had a great time going out to different places around the city. The music festival on Saturday night was a really cool way to get to hear a lot of local music. My internship was supposed to start on Monday, but my supervisor had the flu and the rest of the staff was at a workshop, so I came back home early. I had a much needed day to relax, went to the Namibian craft center to check out some local art, and went to bed early. I finally got my first full night of sleep since I’ve gotten here. I certainly needed it, because our entire group of 35 (the 25 students and 10 CGE staff) went on a full day teambuilding retreat. It was held at a conference center 2 km outside the city – it’s amazing how quickly the city landscapes turn into rural ones. No suburban sprawl here. Last night was devoted to reading to prepare for the first few days of classes.
My internship starts (hopefully for real this time) in an hour! This afternoon we have a homestay prep session, since we go to our longest homestays tomorrow, and tonight I’m going to spoken word. I’m still feeling mostly excitement. I think this “brand new” feeling has lasted so long since we’ve spent so much time getting oriented to the city and since I still haven’t started classes or my internship. Moving to the homestay will probably also keep me from feeling completely settled. As much fun as I’m having now, I am looking forward to feeling settled and at home. I think that’ll shape my experience into something different, so I’ll be really learning instead of just having fun.
My internship starts (hopefully for real this time) in an hour! This afternoon we have a homestay prep session, since we go to our longest homestays tomorrow, and tonight I’m going to spoken word. I’m still feeling mostly excitement. I think this “brand new” feeling has lasted so long since we’ve spent so much time getting oriented to the city and since I still haven’t started classes or my internship. Moving to the homestay will probably also keep me from feeling completely settled. As much fun as I’m having now, I am looking forward to feeling settled and at home. I think that’ll shape my experience into something different, so I’ll be really learning instead of just having fun.
28 August 2009
I got a phone!
I got a Namibian cell phone! I am now reachable by phone 24 hours a day (but please keep the 6 hour time difference in mind). To get in touch with me, you can call my cell at 011 264 855 906 345. You can also try the house phone, which may be cheaper since it’s a land line, but if I’m not in the house you’ll have to leave a message. That number is 011 264 61 250 737.
I’m starting to get to know the city a little bit better. Last night I went out to Funky Lab, a club in Klein Windhoek. Today I met with NUDO, the primary opposition party. That was very informative and I’m looking forward to hearing from the leading party, SWAPO, so that I can form an opinion on Namibian politics. It’s an election year and I’m taking an African politics course, so I’m sure I’ll be learning a lot more about the current political situation. I went to NUDO with Otto, who is from Katatura (Windhoek’s township) and afterwards we went downtown to see some cool things. It was cool to make a Namibian friend and the other CGE students met with different Namibians, so it will be nice to meet them too when we hang out in the future. Tonight is our first Friday night, so I’m going to a place called El Cubano. Tomorrow, I’ll help paint an orphanage in the morning and go to an outdoor music festival (celebrating spring!) in the afternoon. My internship starts Monday and classes start Wednesday, so there are some great things coming up next week.
One last thing – happy birthday (a few days belated) to Phoebe!!!! There was no time for me to get a card in the mail, so you get your birthday wish via blog!
I’m starting to get to know the city a little bit better. Last night I went out to Funky Lab, a club in Klein Windhoek. Today I met with NUDO, the primary opposition party. That was very informative and I’m looking forward to hearing from the leading party, SWAPO, so that I can form an opinion on Namibian politics. It’s an election year and I’m taking an African politics course, so I’m sure I’ll be learning a lot more about the current political situation. I went to NUDO with Otto, who is from Katatura (Windhoek’s township) and afterwards we went downtown to see some cool things. It was cool to make a Namibian friend and the other CGE students met with different Namibians, so it will be nice to meet them too when we hang out in the future. Tonight is our first Friday night, so I’m going to a place called El Cubano. Tomorrow, I’ll help paint an orphanage in the morning and go to an outdoor music festival (celebrating spring!) in the afternoon. My internship starts Monday and classes start Wednesday, so there are some great things coming up next week.
One last thing – happy birthday (a few days belated) to Phoebe!!!! There was no time for me to get a card in the mail, so you get your birthday wish via blog!
26 August 2009
Helloooo Windhoek!
I am now in the CGE house in Windhoek, Namibia after another full week in South Africa. I did a ton of things and I don’t really know where to start this update.
Friday to Monday I did a homestay in Soweto. My host family (the mom Thandie, 20-year old son Karabo, and 11 year old daughter Carise) were welcoming and open and friendly. Thandie was really concerned about my safety, so she wouldn’t let me do much exploring of the neighborhood. Luckily, Karabo and had a lot in common and stayed up late talking every night. I didn’t get as good a perspective on the township as others did, but I definitely got a good view into this particular family’s life. Another interesting part of the homestay was being a minority. We were in pairs for this first homestay, but my homestay partner, Shakita, is African-American, so she did not stand out as much. For the entire weekend I did not see another white person (except other people from CGE at church) and I got waves, comments, stares constantly. It was an interesting experience being so visibly different and out of place, but it wasn’t particularly uncomfortable.
On Monday, after getting picked up from Soweto, we visited a place called 17 Shaft. This is an organization that does a lot of social and community work but I enjoyed the visit because of the CEO, Steve. Steve can best be described by one word: LEGEND. When we first met him, he introduced himself as “one of the few New Zealanders who is an officer in the Russian army living in South Africa.” He said this while pointing a gun at the group (he was showing off his weapons collection). He’s served with four armies on four continents and was an active part of the military arm of the ANC during the liberatin struggle. He’s currently working on turning over the management of his organization so that he can fight Somalian pirates. He does not believe there is any situation in which violence is unacceptable, and he can’t go back to jail.
From 17 Shaft we went straight to Pretoria. Some of the highlights of the two days I spent there: talking to a foreign service officer at the US Embassy and going to an all-you-can-eat buffet restaurant that also served bottomless drinks (an interesting and, for some, nausea inducing combination).
This morning we flew to Windhoek, where we are based for the remainder of the semester. Our house is HUGE and so nice, which it needs to be since there are 25 of us living here. I am sharing a bedroom with 5 other girls which is a little cramped, but the common spaces of the house are incredible. We’ve got a pool and a firepit. The city itself is pretty dangerous – there was a mugging outside of our house at 5:45 this evening – but as long as the standard precautions are taken, the risk should be minimal. And unlike Joburg, the crime here is not particularly violent. Tomorrow we are doing a driving tour to orient ourselves, and I’m really looking forward to getting to know the city better. We also start prepping for our internships --- my first day is Monday, and I am SOOO excited!
20 August 2009
African Socialism
The past few days I’ve been pretty busy. I went to the Apartheid Museum on Wednesday morning. It was really informative and used a lot of different types of media, but there was so much information that I felt a little bit overwhelmed. It was designed by the person who designed the Holocaust Museum in D.C. and I noticed a lot of similarities between the two. At the beginning of the Apartheid Museum you are given a card that determined your identity (white or non white) and your path in the museum, much like the booklets handed out at the Holocaust Museum. I took my time and tried to thoroughly absorb the information in each room, which meant I only got about halfway through the museum before it was time to leave. Now though, as I’m thinking about the designer, I wonder what it’s like having a job documenting and archiving atrocities for the public. Not a job most people grow up wanting to have.
A lot of the rest of the time has been taken up in lectures. We heard from a political economist who works for a South African environmental group. While the lecture duplicated a lot of the stuff I hear every day as an ID major at Clark (neoliberalism, the World Bank, sustainability, resource management), the speaker was really well-spoken and funny (in a cynical, depressing way). A representative of the South African Council of Churches spoke to us today. I enjoyed learning about all of the advocacy and social work that the organization does. They were instrumental in the struggle against apartheid and continue to be active in society and government.
My favorite lecture so far was at the Anti-Privatization Forum (ADF)’s offices in downtown Jo’burg. The ADF is an umbrella organization that provides supports for local NGOs and does community organizing. They, like many of the people I have talked to this week, are socialists. The South African constitution is among the most liberal in the world and it promises, amongst other things, that the government will provide housing, welfare, electricity, social security, etc. That means two things: that the scope of the government’s responsibilities and socialist programs encourage socialist thought and that service provision is a primary concern among all South Africans. The ADF does incredible work in all kinds of areas, from electricity and water, to women’s rights and education. They are a really inspiring organization and I wish we could have had more time there.
In addition to all of the informative stuff, we went to a market today. It is a pretty famous (and therefore overpriced) market, but it was fun to do some bargaining (turns out I’m not as bad as I thought). I had some awesome Indian food there too. I feel like all we do here is eat. I’m never hungry, but they’re constantly providing us with meals. Tomorrow we leave for our homestays in Soweto, and from there to a new hostel in Pretoria, so I’m not sure when I’ll have internet again. My homestay family has teenagers, so I’m excited to meet them and talk to them. Hopefully I’ll have fun, step out of my comfort zone, and experience some cultural immersion.
A lot of the rest of the time has been taken up in lectures. We heard from a political economist who works for a South African environmental group. While the lecture duplicated a lot of the stuff I hear every day as an ID major at Clark (neoliberalism, the World Bank, sustainability, resource management), the speaker was really well-spoken and funny (in a cynical, depressing way). A representative of the South African Council of Churches spoke to us today. I enjoyed learning about all of the advocacy and social work that the organization does. They were instrumental in the struggle against apartheid and continue to be active in society and government.
My favorite lecture so far was at the Anti-Privatization Forum (ADF)’s offices in downtown Jo’burg. The ADF is an umbrella organization that provides supports for local NGOs and does community organizing. They, like many of the people I have talked to this week, are socialists. The South African constitution is among the most liberal in the world and it promises, amongst other things, that the government will provide housing, welfare, electricity, social security, etc. That means two things: that the scope of the government’s responsibilities and socialist programs encourage socialist thought and that service provision is a primary concern among all South Africans. The ADF does incredible work in all kinds of areas, from electricity and water, to women’s rights and education. They are a really inspiring organization and I wish we could have had more time there.
In addition to all of the informative stuff, we went to a market today. It is a pretty famous (and therefore overpriced) market, but it was fun to do some bargaining (turns out I’m not as bad as I thought). I had some awesome Indian food there too. I feel like all we do here is eat. I’m never hungry, but they’re constantly providing us with meals. Tomorrow we leave for our homestays in Soweto, and from there to a new hostel in Pretoria, so I’m not sure when I’ll have internet again. My homestay family has teenagers, so I’m excited to meet them and talk to them. Hopefully I’ll have fun, step out of my comfort zone, and experience some cultural immersion.
18 August 2009
"After the change..."
Every time Malefi talks about events in South Africa of the past 75 years, he uses the phrase “after the change” or “before the change.” Instead of using numbers, or saying since the end of apartheid, he talks about the change. Maybe I’m just rambling about semantics here, but that’s really interesting to me. The new elections in 1994 and the end of apartheid was not only a major milestone, but both the biggest event (THE change) and a complete transformation (the CHANGE). I’m sorry if I’m not making sense here, but they way he, among others, emphasize both words, make me realize that the events culminating in the 1994 election were both huge and transformational. It’s so interesting for me to see that there was such a singular issue that dominated (and continues to dominate) both politics and everyday life.
On to my day’s activities, which are probably of more interest. First we went to a semi-private (Catholic) secondary school. I was amazed by both the amount of knowledge and the amount of preconceptions that the students had about the United States. That mixture of truth and false perception probably mirrors my notions about the region. I was also really surprised to see how concrete and lofty the career goals of the students were. Many of the girls told me they wanted to be chemical engineers or doctors, and Banana, my personal tour guide and a student in 11th grade, told me that he wanted to be a gynecologist. They also had interesting insights into the South African educational system; most often cited as an issue was the lack of resources. It was really fun to learn from the kids and also to talk to them and I took some great pictures and laughed a lot.
Afterwards, we went to the Hector Pieterson museum. Hector Pieterson was a 13 year old boy killed during the student protests of June 16th, 1976. As such, he has become a symbol of the liberation struggle. We heard his sister, Antoinette Sithole, speak and then toured the museum, which was really well presented and informative. I am looking forward to my trip to the Apartheid Museum tomorrow and the Voortrekker Museum next week to compare.
Now I’ve got to go, time for a group session on “Group Dynamics.” I’m anticipating trust falls….hopefully I won’t break my nose this time!
On to my day’s activities, which are probably of more interest. First we went to a semi-private (Catholic) secondary school. I was amazed by both the amount of knowledge and the amount of preconceptions that the students had about the United States. That mixture of truth and false perception probably mirrors my notions about the region. I was also really surprised to see how concrete and lofty the career goals of the students were. Many of the girls told me they wanted to be chemical engineers or doctors, and Banana, my personal tour guide and a student in 11th grade, told me that he wanted to be a gynecologist. They also had interesting insights into the South African educational system; most often cited as an issue was the lack of resources. It was really fun to learn from the kids and also to talk to them and I took some great pictures and laughed a lot.
Afterwards, we went to the Hector Pieterson museum. Hector Pieterson was a 13 year old boy killed during the student protests of June 16th, 1976. As such, he has become a symbol of the liberation struggle. We heard his sister, Antoinette Sithole, speak and then toured the museum, which was really well presented and informative. I am looking forward to my trip to the Apartheid Museum tomorrow and the Voortrekker Museum next week to compare.
Now I’ve got to go, time for a group session on “Group Dynamics.” I’m anticipating trust falls….hopefully I won’t break my nose this time!
17 August 2009
Arrival in Joburg
After an exhausting 16 hour flight, complete with a refueling stop in Dakar, Senegal, our group arrived in Johannesburg at 5:40 pm on Sunday, August 15th. We were met by several of our program coordinators and 3 other students who flew separately. After driving to our guesthouse, eating dinner (which I wouldn’t have thought possible, since they gave us 3 meals on the plane), and having introductions, we went to sleep. I have never slept better, and never been more upset to wake up at 7:30 am. Our busy day today was worth the lack of sleep over the past few days.
After another introduction to the program, we had a lecture by a South African coordinator, Malefi. He was a student leader during the liberation struggle and so had a very good perspective and told us a lot about South Africa’s history since colonization. What I found most interesting, however, were his thoughts on South Africa since the 1990s. Many people say that the peace that South Africa is experiencing is a miracle; he disagrees. He says that he and the other student leaders never saw their struggle as a fight against the white Afrikaners, but instead as a fight against apartheid. The problems that arise today are because the government of the past framed the fight as a fight against white people, so that some white South Africans are even today afraid to go into historically black areas or townships like Soweto, in which we spent the remainder of the day.
We did a driving tour of Soweto to begin, with stops at the hostels (temporary housing for single males during apartheid, which today houses entire families without electricity, plumbing, or other basics that I have grown up considering necessities) and Regina Mundi church (a meeting place for student leaders during the struggle, and an important reminder of all the South Africans faced during apartheid). We went to the Soweto mall for lunch, which provided an incredible and disturbing contrast to the areas we had just visited. Afterwards, we went to Cliptown, a very impoverished area in Soweto. Since we met some local politicians there, we were allowed to walk through the alleys and actually go into some people’s living spaces (which are more easily categorized as shacks than houses). We saw the single water tap and row of port-a-potties that have to service hundreds of shacks at a time. We talked to the men who led us through the town, both lifelong residents, and met large groups of children who were very excited to see us. We also went into a 4-star hotel right next to the shanties (once again, a disturbing contrast, which may have explained the lack of guests) and went to Freedom Square, where the components of the Freedom Charter developed by the ANC in the 1950s is written and memorialized. All in all, an incredibly informing day. Our week in Joburg is a travel seminar, so I expect more of the same (guest speakers and tours) until Friday, when I’ll have a homestay in Soweto. After that, I travel to Pretoria for two days, and then on to Windhoek. Finally there I will start my classes and internship and, hopefully, become more of a resident than a tourist.
After another introduction to the program, we had a lecture by a South African coordinator, Malefi. He was a student leader during the liberation struggle and so had a very good perspective and told us a lot about South Africa’s history since colonization. What I found most interesting, however, were his thoughts on South Africa since the 1990s. Many people say that the peace that South Africa is experiencing is a miracle; he disagrees. He says that he and the other student leaders never saw their struggle as a fight against the white Afrikaners, but instead as a fight against apartheid. The problems that arise today are because the government of the past framed the fight as a fight against white people, so that some white South Africans are even today afraid to go into historically black areas or townships like Soweto, in which we spent the remainder of the day.
We did a driving tour of Soweto to begin, with stops at the hostels (temporary housing for single males during apartheid, which today houses entire families without electricity, plumbing, or other basics that I have grown up considering necessities) and Regina Mundi church (a meeting place for student leaders during the struggle, and an important reminder of all the South Africans faced during apartheid). We went to the Soweto mall for lunch, which provided an incredible and disturbing contrast to the areas we had just visited. Afterwards, we went to Cliptown, a very impoverished area in Soweto. Since we met some local politicians there, we were allowed to walk through the alleys and actually go into some people’s living spaces (which are more easily categorized as shacks than houses). We saw the single water tap and row of port-a-potties that have to service hundreds of shacks at a time. We talked to the men who led us through the town, both lifelong residents, and met large groups of children who were very excited to see us. We also went into a 4-star hotel right next to the shanties (once again, a disturbing contrast, which may have explained the lack of guests) and went to Freedom Square, where the components of the Freedom Charter developed by the ANC in the 1950s is written and memorialized. All in all, an incredibly informing day. Our week in Joburg is a travel seminar, so I expect more of the same (guest speakers and tours) until Friday, when I’ll have a homestay in Soweto. After that, I travel to Pretoria for two days, and then on to Windhoek. Finally there I will start my classes and internship and, hopefully, become more of a resident than a tourist.
05 August 2009
10 Days.....
Ten days from now, on August 15th, I will be making my way to Washington D.C. for a glorious 16 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. After spending a week there, including a short homestay in Soweto, it's another flight (much shorter this time, thankfully) to Windhoek, Namibia, my home base for the majority of my four months in Africa. While in Namibia, I'll be doing some travelling. I'll have some homestays, both urban and rural. I'll have an internship with a women's health and HIV/AIDS advocacy group, working on a literacy program for HIV-positive women. I'll be living with and taking classes with 20-something other college students in a house with wireless internet and a pool (so much for roughing it......) I'll leave Namibia to spend a final week in Cape Town and then, finally, on December 6th I'll come home.
Even though I know the details and dates, the whens and wheres of my four months abroad, there is so much I don't know. Who will I meet? What will I do? Will I feel like I have accomplished something, learned something, at the end of my experience. Will I have regrets that I did too much or didn't do enough?
All of those questions I have will remain unanswered until I arrive in Joburg, until I am living in Namibia, or perhaps even until I have been back home and had time to process my experiences. I don't think there's really a way to prepare yourself for a transition to a new place because so many quantities are unknown. I dunno, maybe there is something I should be doing to get ready. Maybe I'm just justifying my procrastination..........
Even though I know the details and dates, the whens and wheres of my four months abroad, there is so much I don't know. Who will I meet? What will I do? Will I feel like I have accomplished something, learned something, at the end of my experience. Will I have regrets that I did too much or didn't do enough?
All of those questions I have will remain unanswered until I arrive in Joburg, until I am living in Namibia, or perhaps even until I have been back home and had time to process my experiences. I don't think there's really a way to prepare yourself for a transition to a new place because so many quantities are unknown. I dunno, maybe there is something I should be doing to get ready. Maybe I'm just justifying my procrastination..........
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